{"id":2247,"date":"2018-08-10T13:34:28","date_gmt":"2018-08-10T08:04:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/34.22.110.190\/english\/?p=2247"},"modified":"2018-08-10T13:41:59","modified_gmt":"2018-08-10T08:11:59","slug":"on-a-truck-alone-to-mcmahon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thebengalstory.com\/english\/on-a-truck-alone-to-mcmahon\/","title":{"rendered":"On a Truck Alone, to McMahon"},"content":{"rendered":"

For the Sheer Joy of It<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u2018Can you tell me how to get to Tawang?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018What\u2019s that? Tawang? Why Tawang all of a sudden? Do you work on Tibetan history? That\u2019s true, you\u2019ll get plenty of material there….\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018…\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018No? You have no interest in Tibetan history? Why Tawang then? I see, you must be specializing in philosophy. Yes, for Buddhist philosophy …\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018…\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Not that either? Neither history nor philosophy? Then what? Wait, I know, Sino-Tibetan languages, right? No?\u2019<\/p>\n

Now the gentleman looked genuinely perturbed. \u2018Is it anthropology, then? The Mompa versus Khampa conflict? Tribal culture? Not those either? Ah, now I get it. Political science. Border dispute, McMahon Line. Isn\u2019t that it? Have I got it or not? Chinese aggression, Lhasa\u2013Tawang Road. Bomdila occupation. Four dates of the twentieth century are important for you\u20141914, 1937\u20138\u20139, 1951, and 1962. Yes, Sir, Tawang is quite important positionally!\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018But I\u2019m not researching any of this. I\u2019m not even remotely interested in researching Tawang. I just want very much to go there. In 1975, I heard from a philosopher-friend of mine in Shillong [Rita Gupta] that there are many rare Tibetan manuscripts there. But it\u2019s a very difficult journey. Not too many people make it that far, I\u2019m told. Verrier Elwin did visit a few years ago, though.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018So did Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay, but she couldn\u2019t go back.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018What do you mean? Isn\u2019t she in Delhi now?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Maybe she is now, but she wasn\u2019t for a long time. She was marooned in Tawang. The road was cut off by snow. She would have spent the entire winter there had it not been for someone having a heart attack.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018What! Who had a heart attack? Was it a relative?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018No, it wasn\u2019t anyone she knew. An army officer posted in Tawang. He was airlifted to Bomdila in a military helicopter\u2014and, along with him, Kamala Devi Chattopadhyay. An elderly lady, what if something were to happen to her in that extreme cold? That\u2019s the only reason\u2014or else military vehicles are not allowed to give rides to civilian women.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Were you in Tawang too?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Of course not, why should I kill myself in the cold, that too in a place nobody goes to? You know it\u2019s above the tree line, don\u2019t you? There are no large trees, no birds and animals. It\u2019s a lousy place. No one visits out of choice. Nothing to see, except Tibetan yaks and Buddhist monks. That\u2019s what you want to see, right? Useless stuff! The monastery is India\u2019s biggest though. The second largest in the world. The biggest one is in Lhasa. People talk of the one in Dharamshala or the one in Leh, but they\u2019re much smaller. There\u2019s no larger library anywhere. More than two thousand books and manuscripts. To put it simply? A manuscript library, right? Even includes books written in letters of gold. But they won\u2019t let you touch those. Every one of them is wrapped in a fabric of bark, tied with string, and put away safely. I believe they\u2019re dusted and cleaned regularly, though. But no one can read them. How many people can read ancient Tibetan, after all? What do you want to go for? Do you know how to read ancient Tibetan?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018I can\u2019t, I can\u2019t. I keep telling you it\u2019s not for research. Pure curiosity. So that I can say, \u201cI climbed the mountain because it\u2019s there\u201d. Tawang\u2019s there, so I want to go.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Why not go to Guwahati instead? Guwahati\u2019s there too. Much easier and safer to travel there, and plenty to see. Have you been to Kamakshyadevi? Gauhati University? Cotton College?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018No. I will, one day. But Tawang first. How do you know so much about Tawang if you\u2019ve never been there yourself?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018I\u2019ve been in Bomdila a long time, haven\u2019t I? We get all the news at Bomdila. Army people come down from the Tawang area all the time. Of course, Tawang itself is a military-free area, neither Indian nor Chinese army camps are allowed within forty miles on either side of the border.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018What a good arrangement! No border guards then?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018There are. But they are stationed on the border. Apparently the Indian and Chinese soldiers eat and drink together. Our last military camp this side of the border is at a place named Jung. An open camp, that is. I\u2019m positive we have secret bunkers and an underground campus in Tawang. Nothing will be visible on the surface. All subterranean.<\/p>\n

\u2018Really? I\u2019m getting goosebumps. This is like one of the Ghana-da stories. Now I\u2019m even more excited. I\u2019ll see the subterranean bunkers, lovely. Never seen one before.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018You think they\u2019ll let you in? My foot! Are you expecting them to invite you cordially to see the bunkers? Those things are top secret. Even the residents of Tawang have never been told about them. I have no idea what you\u2019re thinking. It\u2019s a very sensitive area, you know. Have you got an inner line permit? It\u2019s all very well to jump up and down saying you want to go there, but can you get hold of a permit? Do you know anyone?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018An inner line permit? What on earth is that? Where do you get it?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018It\u2019s the government\u2019s permission for entering this reserved area. A passport, basically. Issued by the Arunachal government. They don\u2019t give it to anyone and everyone. You have to provide a reason. A valid reason.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Where must I go to get one?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Itanagar. You have to go to Itanagar.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Which way is Itanagar? How far from Tezpur? Is it on the way to Bomdila?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018It\u2019s in the opposite direction.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Really? This is going to be a problem. And you\u2019re going off to Bomdila the\u00a0day after tomorrow.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018What\u2019s that got to do with you?\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018I was thinking of going up to Bomdila in your jeep.\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018You can come along if you get the permit. I don\u2019t have\u00a0any particular objection. But where will you stay at Bomdila? I can\u2019t let you stay at my place. My family isn\u2019t there right now. Arrangements will have to be made at the Inspection Bungalow. But what\u2019ll you go to Bomdila for anyway? There\u2019s nothing to see there. And Tawang is a long way off from Bomdila, you know. Besides, who are you going to Tawang with? Get hold of a companion first. You never know what might happen in those places, you mustn\u2019t go alone.\u2019<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Excerpted from the book,\u00a0On a Truck Alone, to McMahon<\/em>, by Nabaneeta Dev Sen.\u00a0Translated from Bengali by Arunava Sinha; Edited by Mini Krishnan.\u00a0 (Published here with permission from the translator)<\/p>\n

Oxford University Press;\u00a0Price: 395.00 INR<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

An excerpt from the book. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":100,"featured_media":2249,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[20],"tags":[],"adace-sponsor":[],"class_list":["post-2247","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-books"],"yoast_head":"\nOn a Truck Alone, to McMahon - The Bengal Story<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/thebengalstory.com\/english\/on-a-truck-alone-to-mcmahon\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"On a Truck Alone, to McMahon\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"An excerpt from the book.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/thebengalstory.com\/english\/on-a-truck-alone-to-mcmahon\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"The Bengal Story\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2018-08-10T08:04:28+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-08-10T08:11:59+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"http:\/\/34.22.110.190\/english\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2018\/08\/Tawang_154-e1533885690408.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"997\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"748\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Nabaneeta Dev Sen, translated by Arunava Sinha\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Nabaneeta Dev Sen, translated by Arunava Sinha\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/on-a-truck-alone-to-mcmahon\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/on-a-truck-alone-to-mcmahon\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Nabaneeta Dev Sen, translated by Arunava Sinha\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/0908ccd6b76296df83b7fe3a13b75b87\"},\"headline\":\"On a Truck Alone, to McMahon\",\"datePublished\":\"2018-08-10T08:04:28+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2018-08-10T08:11:59+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/on-a-truck-alone-to-mcmahon\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1159,\"commentCount\":0,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/on-a-truck-alone-to-mcmahon\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/sites\\\/2\\\/2018\\\/08\\\/Tawang_154-e1533885690408.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Books\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/on-a-truck-alone-to-mcmahon\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/on-a-truck-alone-to-mcmahon\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/on-a-truck-alone-to-mcmahon\\\/\",\"name\":\"On a Truck Alone, to McMahon - 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