{"id":5845,"date":"2019-06-30T15:57:13","date_gmt":"2019-06-30T10:27:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/34.22.110.190\/english\/?p=5845"},"modified":"2019-07-08T13:41:33","modified_gmt":"2019-07-08T08:11:33","slug":"visiting-john-keats-in-rome","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thebengalstory.com\/english\/visiting-john-keats-in-rome\/","title":{"rendered":"Visiting John Keats in Rome"},"content":{"rendered":"

When I have fears that I may cease to be<\/em><\/p>\n

Before my pen has glean\u2019d my teeming brain,<\/em><\/p>\n

Before high-piled books, in charactery,<\/em><\/p>\n

Hold like rich garners the full ripen\u2019d grain;\u2026<\/em><\/p>\n

John Keats, 1818<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Testaccio is the twentieth rione of Rome, once a traditional working class neighbourhood. The Monte Testaccio, built on a massive mound of discarded ancient Roman amphorae or jars, hovers over the horizon. In Testaccio, the famous Roman dishes like the Trippa alla Romana and the oxtail stew were first cooked and the city\u2019s beloved team AS Roma got their first football ground.<\/p>\n

Somewhere here, next to the Pyramid of Cestius built in 30 BC, is the Cimitero Acattolico, or the Non-Catholic cemetery. At a quiet corner of this cemetery is a gravestone, strewn with violets and daisies, that reads:<\/p>\n

\u2018This grave contains all that was Mortal of a Young English Poet Who on his Death Bed, in the Bitterness of his Heart at the Malicious Power of his Enemies Desired these Words to be engraven on his Tomb Stone:\u00a0Here lies One Whose Name was Writ in Water. 24 February 1821<\/em>.\u2019<\/p>\n

The Young English Poet is John Keats, who died of consumption (tuberculosis), aged 25.<\/p>\n

It was during the first couple of years of studying English literature that I had fallen in love with Keats. The young genius, who wrote with such sensual appeal and vivid imagery, tethered to a passion for love and death. The man born to a stable keeper, of whom T.S. Eliot wrote of being, \u2018occupied only with the highest use of poetry.\u2019\u00a0His odes, sonnets and epics, written in a few short years, received high acclaim only after his death.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

I often imagined myself as his Hampstead neighbour Fanny Brawne, to whom he wrote from his deathbed in Rome, \u2018I cannot exist without you. I could be martyr\u2019d for my Religion\u2026 Love is my Religion\u2026 I could die for that\u2026 I could die for you.\u2019<\/p>\n

Sitting on the bench opposite his gravestone several years later, I try to remember what happened to Fanny Brawne. A line flashes in my mind, from one of her letters to Keats\u2019 sister Frances, \u2018All I do is to persuade myself, I shall never see him again.\u2019 And even today, I can feel her pain.<\/p>\n

There are two women standing nearby. I overhear their tourist guide telling them how Keats was a dramatic man and didn\u2019t want his name on the grave. She tells them how he dictated all the words. The women nod thoughtfully, I shake my head in disbelief.<\/p>\n

It was indeed Keats\u2019 wish that the line, \u2018Here lies one whose name was writ in water\u2019 be his epitaph. However, devastated by his death, the first few lines referring to the malicious powers of his enemies were later added by his friends Charles Brown and Joseph Severn. Even the poets Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron, had indicated that Keats\u2019 death had been hastened by the biting criticism of his poem, Endymion<\/em>. Shelley later wrote in Adonais<\/em>, an elegy on Keats\u2019 death:<\/p>\n

\u2018Trampled and mock\u2019d with many a loathed rite<\/p>\n

Of lust and blood; he went, unterrified,<\/p>\n

Into the gulf of death\u2026\u2019<\/p>\n

Though Keats once wrote to Fanny, \u2018I have left no immortal work behind me\u2026 nothing to make my friends proud of my memory\u2026 but I have lov\u2019d the principle of beauty in all things, and if I had had time I would have made myself remember\u2019d,\u2019 there is not much more to show that he was so bitter about death and his critics.<\/p>\n

Michelle Stacey in the Paris Review<\/em> has argued that Keats himself was probably relieved by his death. She writes, \u2018Keats pictured it [his grave] strewn with daisies and violets (which it still is) and looking up to the apartment\u2019s ceiling \u2013 still, as it was then, patterned with white and yellow flowers on a sky-blue background \u2013reflected that he could already feel them growing over him.\u2019<\/p>\n

Severn, who nursed him through his last few days, wrote about his dying minutes, \u2018Severn\u2026 S\u2026 lift me up for I am dying\u2026 I shall die easy \u2026 don\u2019t be frightened\u2026 thank God it has come.\u2019 In fact, Severn later suggested a new inscription to replace, \u2018the present one, so unjust & disrespectful to his memory & painfull to my feelings,\u2019 while blaming Brown for the existing one. Brown himself called it \u201c<\/em>\u2026a sort of profanation\u2026<\/em>\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

But it was never changed. Anyone who visits the grave goes away with the impression that Keats died bitter and cursing his critics. It was, perhaps, neither. He died wishing for a \u2018quiet grave,\u2019 strewn with flowers, celebrating love.<\/p>\n

Keats had travelled to Italy, with perhaps a faint hope that the bright sun will cure his deadly ailment. But he was well-acquainted with its vicious symptoms. He had watched his own mother and younger brother Tom lose their battles to the same disease. Keats knew very well that he was dying. What he didn\u2019t know was that through his enduring poetry, he would live. Even centuries later.<\/p>\n

Next to Keats, lies Severn. Even in his grave, Severn remains \u2018devoted friend and death-bed companion of John Keats, whom he lived to see numbered among The Immortal Poets of England.\u2019 Severn\u2019s epitaph almost seems to be an apology to Keats. And just behind, hidden by the tall grass, is Severn\u2019s infant son.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Next to Keats, lies Severn; picture by: Ananya Dasgupta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

A few metres away, up on a hill, lies Shelley. Shelley was killed when a storm engulfed the boat Don Juan<\/em>, in which he had gone to welcome the well-known critic and essayist Leigh Hunt to Italy. Ten days later his body was washed ashore. On him was a copy of Keats\u2019 1820 volume of poems.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A few metres away, up on a hill, lies Shelley; picture by Ananya Dasgupta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

In this amazingly tranquil cemetery, it is easy to forget the bustling city outside. Stacey writes about Oscar Wilde, \u2018who on a visit in 1877 prostrated himself upon Keats\u2019 grave and proclaimed it \u2018the holiest place in Rome.\u2019<\/p>\n

One can sit here for hours. Time is not on my side and I have other commitments, so I cannot. Instead, I read out what Wilde wrote in his sonnet, \u2018The Grave of Keats\u2019<\/p>\n

\u2018Thy name was writ in water \u2014 it shall stand
\nAnd tears like mine will keep thy memory green.\u2019<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

[Photographs by Ananya Dasgupta]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

At a quiet corner of the cemetery is a gravestone, strewn with violets and daisies.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":112,"featured_media":5846,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11,29],"tags":[],"adace-sponsor":[],"class_list":["post-5845","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-editors-choice","category-travel"],"yoast_head":"\nVisiting John Keats in Rome - The Bengal Story<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/thebengalstory.com\/english\/visiting-john-keats-in-rome\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Visiting John Keats in Rome\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"At a quiet corner of the cemetery is a gravestone, strewn with violets and daisies.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/thebengalstory.com\/english\/visiting-john-keats-in-rome\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"The Bengal Story\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-06-30T10:27:13+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2019-07-08T08:11:33+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"http:\/\/34.22.110.190\/english\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2019\/06\/keats1-e1561889382861.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"2418\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"2418\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Ananya Dasgupta\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Ananya Dasgupta\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/visiting-john-keats-in-rome\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/visiting-john-keats-in-rome\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Ananya Dasgupta\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/a38f34669910091551510a9fd5838c8b\"},\"headline\":\"Visiting John Keats in Rome\",\"datePublished\":\"2019-06-30T10:27:13+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2019-07-08T08:11:33+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/visiting-john-keats-in-rome\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1095,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/visiting-john-keats-in-rome\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/sites\\\/2\\\/2019\\\/06\\\/keats1-e1561889382861.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Editor\u2019s Choice\",\"Travel\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/visiting-john-keats-in-rome\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/thebengalstory.com\\\/english\\\/visiting-john-keats-in-rome\\\/\",\"name\":\"Visiting John Keats in Rome - 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